On
our first day in Costa Rica, we drove out to the Caribbean coast, to Tortuguero
National Park. On the drive out there, we past by many wonderful
sights including the spectacular collection of bird nests you see here.
These nests were made by a bird called "Montezuma's Oropendola".
Each male bird makes two nests for his mate, one for her to lay eggs in
and one that remains empty to try to fool potential predators into thinking
there are no eggs.
We
also passed by acres and acres of banana plantations. Bananas are
Costa Rica's third largest source of income (after tourism and coffee).
As you can see from this picture, the banana flower is quite unique.
Once
we reached the river, we climbed aboard our barcos. We appreciated
the shade covering; not everybody got one!
We
motored downstream, about 5 boats in all, and our guide pointed out many
interesting plants and animals as we went along…
….like
this Basilisk (often called the "Jesus Lizard" because they can walk on
water).
We
saw so many different types of birds (storks, herons, egrets, jacanas,
pelicans, flycatchers, even a Baltimore Oriole!). This little
guy is a Sandpiper. We had two British couples on the boat with us
who were avid bird-watchers; they almost knew more birds than our guide
did!
We
saw a few Spectacled Caimans and this big fellow, an American Crocodile.
There
are many families that have their homes along the river's edge. There
are no roads in the
park,
so they must use boats and canoes to get to the nearest town. The
children take school boats to get to their local "escuela".
This
is where we stopped for lunch. We enjoyed a wonderful meal of gallo
pinto (black beans
and
rice), fried chicken, salad, and dried plantain. Gallo pinto is served
at almost every meal and is a traditional Costa Rican dish.
After
lunch, our guide took us on a walk through the forest in search of toucans.
There were no toucans to be found, but we did see this brightly colored
bird, a Slaty-tailed Trogon. Trogons are in the same family as the
Resplendent Quetzal, one of the most beautiful (and most elusive) birds
in the world.
As
we journeyed back to our starting point, we caught a glimpse of a troop
of spider monkeys making their way through the forest.
The
highlight of our tour happened on the drive back to San Jose. A baby
sloth (called "perezoso" in Spanish) was hanging from this fence post.
Our guide showed us how to touch her without upsetting her. Female
sloths abandon their young when they are only 6 months old and from then
on they must learn to fend for themselves.
On
our second day we flew from San Jose to Quepos, a small town on the pacific
coast. The aerial shot you see here was taken on our way to Quepos.
This is par t of Manuel Antonio National Park. The Costa Rican government
is a very strong advocate of rainforest preservation and has designated
over thirty percent of the country as protected parkland. Manuel
Antonio is the smallest national park in the country and is said to be
the most beautiful.
This
is the Quepos airport. A tiny little building that didn't even have
a front door. There are a few wooden benches inside, but for the
most part people wait for their flights next to the "runway" (We put that
in quotations because technically it is a runway, but really it looks more
like an old gravel road).
From
Quepos, we were taken to our hotel, Si Como No (translates to "Sure, why
not"), four miles southeast of Quepos. The owner of the hotel bought
20 acres of rainforest and built his hotel among the forest. All
the trees and plant material that was removed for the hotel was relocated
to other areas of the property. The large A-frame structure you see
above the pool is where you'll find the lobby (and below it is the movie
theatre, the only one in Costa Rica outside of San Jose, and one of the
restaurants).
This
is a view from the lobby, looking out onto the pool and the Pacific Ocean.
The
rooms are in small buildings (each with 4-6 units) spread throughout the
property and virtually every room as a view of the ocean. Here you
can see the view from our balcony. It was pretty impressive!
This
is an example of the lush vegetation that surrounded us. This picture
was also taken from our balcony.
This
fellow is a White-Nosed Coati-Mundi. He was sleeping on a tree just
outside our room.
The
restaurant we ate at most often was the "Rico Tico". As you can see,
the tables are right
beside
the forest and almost everyday you can see the local squirrel monkeys travel
by on their way to Manuel Antonio.
If
you look closely at this picture, you can see the baby clinging to its
mother's back. Squirrel monkeys travel in groups of 40-50.
So when they went by, it was like a never-ending parade. Great fun
to watch them jump from tree to tree and maneuver those thin, wobbly branches.
The
beach was about a 20 minute walk from our hotel, all downhill. Great
on the way there, but
walking
back really did us in after the third or fourth day.
Many
of the waiters at our hotel worked nights and then taught surfing lessons
in the daytime. The two most popular sports in the area seemed to
be surfing and soccer. Each of the larger hotels had their own soccer
team.
This
is the road you take, past the public beach, to get to Manuel Antonio.
It's lined with many surf shops, fruit stands and even an email café.
Our
first time through Manuel Antonio, we took a guided tour. Our guide,
Marilio, was excellent and extended our 3-hour tour to 4-1/2 hours.
He was pointing out plants and animals every 3 or 4 feet. We had
a great time.
Many
of the trails led you to a beach. There were 6 different beach areas
in total. Each one was more beautiful than the next. They are
excellent spots to body surf or go snorkeling.
At
the edge of the forest, along the beaches, you can usually find capuchin
monkeys. They
won't
come too close, but they are accustomed to the visitors so they sit still
long enough for you to get a few good pictures. The park rangers
told us that if you leave your belongings unattended on the beach, they
sometimes come down and steal them.
This
little guy was tough to catch on film. He was moving fast through
the forest. He is a Central American Agouti.
There
were lizard and iguanas everywhere as we walked through the forest.
Some of them even
have
regular sleeping holes, so Marilio had no trouble finding them for us.
These two are Ctenosaurs. They grow to be about 4 feet long.
Farther
along on our tour, we found this Chameleon. He was completely brown
when we first spotted him. Once he knew we were there, he immediately
started to turn green. That's why he appears so mottled in this picture.
A
trip through any Costa Rican rainforest would not be complete without finding
at least one sloth. We got pretty good at spotting them on our own
after awhile. Costa Rica has two species of sloth:
two-toed
and three-toed. This fellow is a three-toed sloth (perezoso de tres
dedos). The green tinge you see in his fur is actually a type of
blue-green algae that lives in his hair shafts.
Every
once in awhile, as we walked through the park, we came across a section
of bamboo trees. This was the biggest group we saw. Since you
all know how tall Del is, you can tell how truly overwhelming these trees
were.
One
of the tougher trails in the park leads up to this lookout point.
The trail up to it is all uphill and very narrow is places, but well worth
the effort in the end.
We
spend our last two days in Costa Rica back in the central valley, near
San Jose. We took a day
tour
up to the Arenal Volcano, one of the most active volcanoes in the world.
At night you can see the red glow of the lava spewing out of the volcano's
cone. On our way up to the volcano, we stopped in a small
town
called Zarcero, to look at this unique park. This park is maintained
by one man, who has been the groundskeeper for over 25 years. The
building on the background is the Zarcero catholic church.
As
we drove up to the volcano, the clouds moved away and we were able to get
a clear picture of the entire cone. If you look closely, you can
see smoking boulders rolling down the right side. Boulders as big
as houses are continually tossed from the volcano's core all day long.
At
the base of the volcano is the Tabacon Resort and Hot Springs. Part
of our tour consisted of playing in the hot spring pools and touring the
magnificent gardens at the resort.
Cyathea
multiflora (Tree Fern), grows to a height of 20 feet or more.
Heliconia
flower, pollinated only by hummingbirds. These plants grow wild throughout
the forests here. Great for hummingbird lovers, because the flowers
and the birds are everywhere.
On
our last day, we took a tour of a coffee plantation and factory.
This gentleman, along with a cast of others, acted out the history of coffee
and how it came to Costa Rica. It was quite a performance.
Very entertaining!
Here's
how your morning cuppa joe starts out (coffee plant seedlings)
Well,
that's the end of our tour. We hope you enjoyed it!
Costa Rica is a remarkable and beautiful country, one that we will visit again very soon.