Hawai`i 2

Wednesday - Day 1

   Hawai`i 2, the sequel. Direct flight from Dallas to Honolulu (8 hrs), and a connecting flight to Hawaii (a.k.a. the Big Island). It was big enough that I drove 750 miles on the island, and another 350 miles when we got to Kauai. So this might constitute a road trip. It was also a birthday gift to Sandy.

   The trip was planned well in advance, and arranged so we would be on Hawaii before the actual IronMan Triathlon as competition for it would close the city of Kona and overflow it with visitors (thus inconveniencing us tourists). We arrived at the Kailua-Kona airport 5:30 pm local time which is 5 hrs earlier than Dallas, TX. Got a rental car and drove up Rte 19 (Queen Ka'ahumana Hwy) to our resort at the Waikoloa Beach Marriott Hotel. Every day we were on the west side of the island there were Iron men and women biking up and down Rte 19, which goes from Kona to the south to Hawi to the north for 60 miles along volcanic landscape, and has a hugely wide shoulder perfect for bikers.
See Ironmen in training, then read about the Triathlon.

   When we got to the Marriott, Sandy got an upgrade so our room had a partial view of the Pacific ocean day and night. Our package also included a free drink nightly. Shirley Temple for Sandy the first night, but the next nights she got some delicious non-alcoholic smoothies. I stuck with either a standard Mai Tai (light rum, creme de almond, triple sec, sweet and sour mix, pineapple juice, Myer's dark rum) or local beer. That first night we walked about the grounds with our drinks and could sit by the pool and see some of the Luau show which the hotel sponsors every Wednesday night.

Thursday - Day 2

   The Trade Winds were particularly troublesome for us during these two weeks, 10-20 MPH, and usually worse in the afternoons. This was even more of a problem for the Ironman bikers who had to ride in them for 120 miles. Temperatures were always low 70's in the morning, mid-80's afternoon, chance of rain was always 30%. The wind and rain were influenced by whether you were in the north, south, east or west, irrespective of which Island. On the Big Island, the 13,000 foot plus volcanic mountains of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa stopped the westerlies such that Hilo (on the east) was very wet while Kona on the west was dry.

   The Marriott was right on 'Anaeho'omalu beach, and another perk was free snorkeling gear. It was a reasonably sandy beach, but not otherwise protected, so wave action and rip tides were of some concern, even in the calm morning. I snorkeled for an hour and saw some fish, but not the great experience that is available at Hanauma Bay State Underwater Park on Oahu during our previous trip. After cleaning up we drove into Kona. A small tourist town of 10K and although it has the better airport compared to Hilo, the latter is more mainland, commercial and has 40K population. We stopped at a Safeway in Kona, stocked up on groceries and went back to the hotel for lunch. Small meals and modest dinner dining (like Subways that night) not only kept our weight down, I lost a few pounds - on a vacation!

   Having thus explored south of the hotel, I took Rte 19 north along the Kona Coast, past Kawaihee on Hwy 270 to Hawi (the most northern point for the triathlon bikers, and in fact the most northern point on the Island) and continued on 270 as the road became smaller and less well paved to the actual end of the road at Pololu Valley Overlook. On the way hadn't seen any caravan of tourists like the Road to Hana, but once there, a half dozen cars were parked in the limited space available. That's why Hawaii is considered less developed and has less tourism, especially outside of Volcano Nat'l Park.

   So what was to see? Tree covered mountains and rugged coastline, a black lava beach, and for the adventuresome (which did not include Sandy and me) a 400 foot vertical decent from the lookout to the beach on a narrow, slippery path. Presumably a 20 minute walk down (but the climb up - ?). One of the Ironwomen was quick to try it out. Pololu Valley Overlook.

   We backtracked (not much choice when there's only one road) along Hwy 250 to the tiny village of Kapa'au. You can tell we are in Hawai`i as all the names are unpronounceable by us Mainlanders. All the tourists were using the "Blue Book", an ultimate Hawaii guide, one for each island, by Andrew Doughty, a native of Kauai. He would tell you where everything was and where to stop (down to the restaurant, gas station and bathroom), and what you are looking at. In Kapa'au I parked across the street from the original statue commissioned in 1878 and cast in Paris, France of King Kamehameha the Great. At Hawai I took the only other road south, Hwy 250, otherwise known as the Kohala Mountain Road which climbs the mountain up to 3500 feet. This cuts back to Rte 19 just west of Waimea and back to our hotel.

Friday - Day 3

   Hawaiian beaches are Sandy's dream, so we needed to explore as many as possible. Criterion for a good beach is excellent sand and bathtub warm water which is perfectly calm. Snorkeling, surfing, shelling are not on the list. Easy access is also important, and as we found out during the trip, access to public beaches (they are all almost all public, even those on hotel property) can be really difficult. Just north of the Marriott on Rte 19 is the Mauna Kea Resort, which suffered major damage from last years earthquake and was closed. But the public Mauna Kea beach was open. Trick is, you must go through the resort to get there, and they hand out parking passes on a first come basis, with only spaces for 30 vehicles. Thus we got up early (got no. 8) and had it damn near to ourselves, although people drifted in over time. When the last pass is handed out, that's it, even if the 29 others had left. The travel books says this is the best beach on the Island, and we agreed, as it met Sandy's criteria. I didn't rent snorkel gear for it so I can't say how the fish were, but the books say it's good. Mauna Kea beach.

   Driving just a bit south on Rte 19 we got to Hapuna Beach which is a fully accessible public beach with lots of parking, no hassle. Half a mile long, 200 feet wide to accommodate all the locals and bogie boarders. We ranked it second and ate our picnic lunch there. Then back to our hotel and 'Anaeho'omalu beach (and since it's 6-syllables, even the natives just say A Bay). I got my complimentary snorkel gear, but the trade winds had kicked up, the water was choppy and turbid, water kept getting in my snorkel and I couldn't see anything anyway, so 20 minutes and it was quits. We confirmed this one rated 3^rd.

   Evening plans included a tour of the Hilton Waikoloa Village just next to our Marriott. Huge, has its own Swiss tram and a dozen 24-person Disney-engineered canal boats to get you around the 62 acres. You can swim with dolphins, dip in a lagoon, or swim in one of dozens of pools. But no beach (all volcanic rock shoreline). It was not tranquil because of the engine noise and exhaust from the boats, and all the kids, most from Asia. A regular Disneyland atmosphere. We had an excellent Italian dinner at their Donatoni's restaurant, with a table by a window overlooking the canal (they had a patio right on the canal which we declined but it filled up as the evening progressed).

Saturday - Day 4

   Saturday and time to leave the west coast of Hawaii. This was a leisurely drive down Rte 19, past Kailua-Kona (or just "Kona") where it turns into Rte 11 and becomes a single lane in each direction with almost no shoulder. It parallels the Kona Coast, famous for Kona Coffee. Little shops beckon you to come in and try a free cup and see some informational exhibit. All very weak and we passed them all. Jungle and little towns dot this road. The city of Captain Cook (and at a population of 3000, one of the largest) was named for the first European to visit the Hawaiian Islands. He was an explorer and in 1778 landed at Waimea harbor, Kauai. He returned in 1779 at Kealakekua Bay, just west of this town bearing his name. It now has several Kona coffee museums and a botanical Garden.

   Further south we pass over tongues of lava beds, all spewn from Mauna Loa volcano. As we round the southern part of the Island, between mile marker 69 and 70, is an 8 mile gravel road (which I didn't take so as not to void my rental car agreement) which leads to Ka Lae, the southern most point on the Island, and in all the United States.

Miles	Place	North Latitude	Comment
86	Miami FL	25° 48´	The deep south
0	Key West FL	24° 33´	Southernmost point, continental US
-160	Kilauea, Kauai, HI	22° 14´	Northernmost point in Hawaii
-389	Ka Lae, Hawaii, HI	18° 55´	Southernmost point in Hawaii and US

   As we swing east and north the weather gets cloudy as we head to the rainy side of the island. We pass the cutoff for Punalu'u Beach Park which is reported to have a great black lava sand, but press on. The Park is ahead and to our right. Since it was still too early (10 am) to check into our accommodations we decided to go directly to Hawai`i Volcanoes National Park.

   We were dressed in shorts and T-shirts, but here in the high elevation of Kilauea Caldera (4000 ft) it was cool and drizzly. So we changed inside the car, went into the Visitor Center and planned our half day activities. We always had drinks and food in the car for lunches, and outings. Hawai`i Volcanoes NP.

   We were early (i.e. ahead of the big tour buses) and had an easy time driving east around Crater Rim Drive and finding parking where we needed to get out and see the sites/sights. Thurston Lava Tube was up ahead and Sandy had prepared us with flashlights (like in last years adventure at Diamond Head). And like last year, it was artificially lighted (unless you were going real exploring down a narrow lightless dangerous hole at the base of the tube - no thanks). Sandy exiting lava tube.

   Sandy is feeling exhilarated and agrees to hike the 4 mile, 2 hour Kilauea Iki trail. We backtracked a bit in the car and parked at the Kilauea Iki Lookout. We went on the trail and headed west through rain forest along the rim of the Kilauea Iki crater. This lead us to a gradual (gradual is relative) but quite rough 400 foot descent to the crater floor, with the trail and steps are minimally adjusted lava rock. We then crossed back east on lava flows still steaming from the 1959 eruption. As it was still early in the day, only a few other people were on the trail, and we were quite sure we were the oldest. The guide posts for the trail in the crater floor were lava rocks stacked a few feet high (you can't easily stick metal signposts in the lava rock, and with each eruption they are destroyed anyway, as are roads, trails, etcetera). Finally reaching the base of the forest again requiring another 400 foot ascent with tight switchbacks and no guard rails or any significant safety aides. It took us up to the Thurston parking lot and we got on the trail back to the Overlook. It would be one of the two highlights for Sandy and the pictures only partly reflect this unique experience.

   Back in the car we decided to finish circling Crater Rim Road. We saw the Steam Vents, stopped at Kilauea Lookout which is half way around the Kilauea Caldera so you see the same things as from Kilauea Iki Lookout but from a different angle. Went in to Jaggar Museum and the Hawaiian Volcano Observatory. Finally we got to the parking area to walk to Halema'uma'u Crater. The trail to its edge was like being on the moon, but with steam venting from the lava bed.

   We drive to the village of Volcano, Hawaii (pop. 3K). This town exists to support tourism with a motel, many bed and breakfasts, restaurants, gas, and a tiny grocery. Sandy had researched B & B's and found the highly rated The Volcano Teapot our home away from home for two nights and three days. As their website says, Volcano Village is in the rain forest, dripping with dew, everything green and lush, and house and its furnishings and accommodations where excellent. True to the name, the kitchen had lots of tea for brewing (I did), a refrigerator/freezer full of all types of coffee, fresh pastry from the farmer's market laid outside one morning on the porch for us to eat by the owner, four poster bed, big screen TV and DVD player with a great stock of movies, magazines, etc. One could just stay there and not explore, but we did both. Here are some outside shots I took of The Volcano Teapot.

   After removing our shoes on the porch - Mahalo (Thank you) and settling in, we explored the couple of streets of Volcano and had the special Prime Rib dinner at Lava Rock Cafe. We took half home and had it in the B & B the next night. Seventies by day, it dropped into the low 60's that night (plus rain) and I needed to light the gas potbelly fireplace in the living room to warm the place up next morning.

Sunday - Day 5

   Back to the National Park which is only two miles away to finish our tour and spend another 4 hrs. Half way around Crater Rim Road brings you to the Chain of Craters Road which has many places to stop and see completely bizarre landscapes: lava fields; meadows; buildings and roads engulfed by lava eruptions; and at the end of 19 miles, the Pacific Ocean. At the Kealakomo turn off you are already down to 2000 feet elevation, and after that the road really winds and has long switchbacks giving incredible views of lava fields and the Ocean.

   We reach the Holei Sea Arch area where we park and check out the presently empty ranger station (converted motor home so it can be moved easily and quickly since the last station was eaten by a lava flow) and empty snack bar. Use the restrooms and scan the bulletin board for news of hot areas (danger). The road past this was destroyed by a recent eruption and we decide to make the 1 ½ mile walk, almost to the sea, along the sanctioned portion of the remaining road and trail. Long and more adventurous folks took a path across very difficult and unmarked lava fields to see hot lava. Our pictures show that the views were great with less work, and the trail (here marked with little orange cones) was already outlandish, warm, steaming and a bit dangerous with all the crevices and rocks, absolutely no manmade path here. We passed a picnic table which was half embedded in cold lava and the road was wiped over by the eruption. Holei Sea Arch and trail.

   Doing Volcanoes NP in two days was good as it allowed us to do strenuous things which might have tired us out and restricted us in one day. Plus the weather improved the second day. Now we had the afternoon free. The owner of our B & B called us last night to check up, and also made suggestions on sightseeing. One was to see Punalu'u Black Beach. Beaches in Hawaii come in all colors. There is even a Green Sand Beach off the South point of the Island (that was the road I didn't go on earlier, and to get to this beach you really need 4-wheel drive. Since the weather had changed for the better, and turtle sightings are common, we drove the 30 miles.

   Punalu'u Beach Park is for the locals (being 60 miles from either Kona or Hilo). Some development, a golf course, and of course the black sand beach. That stuff really sticks to your flip flops and feet. The water was cold so we only got our feet wet. And the turtle watching also paid off.

   I drove the 30 miles back to Volcano, and continued on Rte 11 to Hilo. We decided against the side trip along Hwy 130 and the south eastern tip of Puna as it sounded very under developed and few outstanding sights. Thus I stayed on Rte 11 and just out of Volcano we saw Akatsuka Orchid Gardens. A place for tour buses and folks like us. Wonderful gifts, and orchids of every type. Sandy plans to get a Madame Pele Anthurium once she gets home.

   We continue east, through Mountain View, HI (pop. 3K) and as we near Hilo we're prepared to turn off into Mauna Loa. No, not the largest volcano on Earth which is behind us and constitutes half the volume of the Big Island. I mean the Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Corporation Visitor Center and 10,000 acres of orchards. The original plantation was established in 1946, and the primary nut processing plant is still here in Hilo, Hawaii. In 2004 Hershey bought Mauna Loa. We took a quick tour (self guided, the plant actually was not operating, and saw 4 videos along the outside catwalk), got some complimentary macadamia nuts, a taste of mac ice cream, walked through the gift shop for some more free samples, and were on our way to Hilo. On the way out we said Aloha to a large nut.

   Route 11 takes you past the airport and into downtown which sits on Hilo Bay. Very very scenic. We drove around Banyan Drive where the resorts are and a park. Why is this area a park? April 1, 1946 it was hit by a tsunami, killing 159 people including 21 school children in Laupahohoe. Then in 1960 another 38 people died in a tsunami. That's when the town decided to make it a park to save lives. But note I said this is now where most of the hotels are. Go figure :-)

   Route 11 becomes 19 here at Hilo where it comes all the way around the north part of the island, changing back to Rte 11 in Kona. Taking weather opportunities (and it was sunny), we pushed on to see the falls, actually 3 falls. All were west of the city on Waianuenue Avenue. First was Rainbow Falls (but rainbows at this falls required a morning sun, and this was afternoon, so no dice). Then a mile west was Boiling Pots, so called as the water roils and is white like it's boiling. Teenagers were jumping in it. In the distance was Pe`epe Falls (not pronounced pee-pee but peh-eh peh-eh). Another mile is Waiale Falls. I past by it and didn't even realize it, turned around a mile later and figured it out. Thus not impressive and no picture taken. But see the other falls.

   I came back through Hilo a different way and drove through the University of Hawai`i at Hilo. Not necessarily an impressive campus, low old building with red corrugated metal roofs. But with two gigantic volcanos on the island (Mauna Kea 13,796 ft and Mauna Loa 13,679 ft, each with world class astronomy observatories), the Astronomy Dept and the Institute for Astronomy at the University of Hawaii are well placed for unsurpassed science. The state built the Saddle Road from Hilo to the top of Mauna Kea and continues on to Hwy 190. Often in clouds, and not well paved or maintained, it is (another) violation of rental car contracts to drive it (so I didn't).

   The brand new (2006) Imiloa Astronomy Center of Hawaii is located on the grounds of the nine acre University and was funded mostly by NASA. It features a planetarium and exhibits telling the story of the Maunakea Volcano as it relates to astronomy and the Hawaiian culture. We saw the outside only, a unique design with three conical titanium covered domes over the 42,000 sq ft main building represent the three volcanoes and largest mountains on the Big Island of Hawaii: Maunakea, Maunaloa, and Hualalai. A 14 ft tile mosaic over the entrance represents the ocean, a voyaging canoe, Mauna Kea, and the Manaiakalani constellation.

   Gosh, seems like we did an awful lot that day for a quiet relaxing trip which I took no part in planning (but stepped in each day to figure out an itinerary since I was the designated driver). Recap: Volcano Nat'l Park; 60 miles round trip to Punalu'u Black Sand Beach; 60 miles round trip to Hilo. There, doesn't sound so busy.

Monday - Day 6

   Our last morning at the Volcano Teapot. We really loved this place, had breakfast and took some more pictures (which you already saw). Packed up and set up for Hilo (again). This was to be our day to tour the north part of the island along Rte 19 (the Hamakua Coast) and return to our original hotel at Waikoloa Beach. From Hilo to Waimea is called the "upper road" (versus taking the Saddle Road, and by versus, I mean these are really the only two roads covering this third of the island). Although only one road, often just one lane each direction, the side roads can be difficult in many ways (directions, poor pavement, other vehicles). Our first stop was Honoli`i Beach Park. A surfers paradise based on the incredible number of cars parked on one side of a windy downhill side road which was too narrow to turn around except at the end. The bridge was washed out otherwise you could have continued down the road and back to Rte 19. As it was I had help directing me (so as not to fall over the cliff and into the sea, and still did some damage to the rental car which I cleaned up later, had to buy some nail polish remover). The beach was only lava rocks but at other times of year sand from the river comes in and fills it. Nevertheless, a serious walk down stairs and out to the beach for access, which never seemed to faze the locals, it was just SOP (standard operating procedure). Of course we just observed.

   Back on Rte 19, and take a 4 mile scenic diversion along the old highway. As if the regular highway wasn't scenic enough. But in fact this was better, ocean, rain forest, you know the standard good stuff. It lead us to the Hawai`i Tropical Botanical Garden. You should read about this unbelievably beautiful place (although we used mosquito repellant liberally). Dan Lutkenhouse discovered Onomea Valley in 1977 while vacationing with his wife and purchased the 17-acre parcel, turning it into a non-profit venture of which the garden part displays more than 2,000 species of palms, heliconias, gingers, bromeliads, and other rare and exotic plants from all parts of the tropical world. Bridges, waterfalls, ocean views plus the plants (many we've never heard of or seen) made this a highlight of the trip (and the only garden we bothered to visit). See the flowers.

   `Akaka Falls, yes another falls, this one 420 feet. With all the rain this side of the island gets, and it's mountainous, well then water will naturally fall. To get there, the usual drive, park, semi-long walk.

   Laupahoehoe Point & Memorial. Yes, you heard about this place, where the children died from a tsunami. There is a park out to the ocean where the waves crash on lava rocks, beautiful and powerful. The Memorial was simple granite but touching and a nearby board had newspaper articles about the 1946 event. You can read more info about this town of 400 from the Hawaii State Info website.

   Our dear friends the Rowe's own a house in Honoka'a that we have heard about for years. Now we finally had the chance to see it. Their house is occupied by an artist (whose work we saw on display at a shop in Volcano NP). On a hill across the highway from the town proper, it commands a view of the ocean. Not bad. Driving back and across Rte 19 we went into Tex's Drive Inn for a highly touted portuguese malasada (a puffy holeless donut, deep-fried, rolled in sugar and eaten hot). So so.

   We drive through Honoka'a on Hwy 240. Small shops, a supermarket (where I got that nail polish remover for the yellow paint marks on the rental car), usual town businesses and government buildings. Actually very busy place for what should be a dying plantation town. I guess tourism helps. This is the gateway for the Valley of Kings, Waipi'o Valley. Here is another place you can't take a rental car, and for good reason, the ride down is ridiculously scary (one lane 900 ft descent over less than a mile equals 25% grade!) A shuttle bus can be hired to take you for the few activities (hiking, camping, horse riding) but there are reports that they are not reliable on picking up folks who went down. And the natives (about 50) don't like visitors, have almost no amenities (like power, water, sewage, phones, TV) and give tourists the stinky eye. But for raw beauty (e.g. Hi`ilawe Falls, 1200 free fall, highest in Hawaii, or Waiulili Falls which drops directly into the ocean) it does seem inviting. This website shows spectacular pictures of all the good stuff. I highly recommend you check it out. Really.

   Drive back to Honoka'a to get back on Rte 19, then to Waimea and the Parker Ranch which we hit earlier on the vacation. From there it was easy to get back to the Marriott Hotel where we stayed one last night so the trip to the airport would be easy. We knew the routine at the Marriott (where to park, where to eat, free drink, sunset).

Tuesday - Day 7

   Coming in to an airport, one never spends time looking around. Now that we were outbound to Kauai, we had plenty of time to check out the shops and sights. It was all open air, with lava fields and ocean as a backdrop, quite nice. We flew to Honolulu, a prerequisite for all the inter-island flights, and were lucky we could stay in the same plane which then took a direct path northwest to Lihu'e so that we approached the Lihu'e airport from the south. I had my camera and took this shot. The mountain on the left is Ha'upu Range, a thin piece of land acts as a wave break to protect Nawiliwili Bay and a Norwegian Cruise Line ship is docked at the industrial port (we saw it later close up). It's an easy walk from port to Anchor Cove shopping, or Kalapaki Beach which is part of the Kauai Marriott Resort & Beach Club.

   Sandy and I split up at the airport (our usual modus operandi), she gets the luggage, I get the rental car. Then we head north about 7 miles on Hwy 56 (Kuhio Hwy) to the city of Kapa'a (pop. 9K) which is the big city, has 2 supermarkets (Safeway; Foodland) across from our condo. By comparison Lihu'e has a population of 5K, Princeville 2K, the entire island only has 58,000 residents. As we got there a bit early to check in, we went across the street to check out the strip mall. Pacific Island Bistro looked pretty good so we went back later for what turned out to be a disappointing dinner.

   Finally we checked in. We have a partial ocean view, 1 bedroom condo in the mint new Waipouli Beach Resort on the 4^th floor, air conditioned, beautiful kitchen, huge bathroom, actually two, washer/dry and everything you need to live without leaving. All appliances were very high tech, in fact Sandy pulled up a chair and watched the clothes wash. That night it was time to stock up on food, and a pineapple.

   Now the thing about partial view is you need to really crane your neck on the balcony to see the ocean, and you can't see the beach as this dilapidated nameless motel is in the way. Looking the other way you can see Kauai Village, a strip mall anchored by Safeway and Longs Drugs. It has a three-story clock tower with a whale mural which is 44 ft high and goes all the way around the tower, painted by Wyland (who has 93 murals to his credit seen by a billion people worldwide). I took two pictures from our balcony that night of a sunset (we had more than our share of tradewinds and cloudy weather, even some rain) and a few days later right after an early morning rain, two more off the balcony of a rainbow which magically ended on the whale mural. pictures.

Wednesday - Day 8

   A sunny day and set for sightseeing. First breakfast (which was almost always french toast and pineapple). This was a generic brand of pineapple, and despite being from/in Hawaii, was not great (especially to my memories of the Maui Gold from last year). We had to travel only a short way south on Hwy 56 and then Hwy 580 west, through the mountainous rain forest, to get to `Opaeka`a Falls. I didn't take a picture as it was too far away, I had no telephoto lens, etc. Wailua River Lookout is across the street and I'll show pictures of that later. We also came back to this road later. If you could travel even further (you can't by car) up this mountain chain you come to Mt Kawaikini (1 mile high and tallest point on the Island, seen easily from our condo and always in clouds). And also Mt Wai`ale`ale at the southeastern edge of an extinct caldera. It has the distinction of getting the most rain (460 inches/year) of any place on Earth. Yes, the whole planet.

   Back to Hwy 56, south, then west on Hwy 583 to the next falls, Wailua Falls. This one was a keeper. Back to Hwy 56, south to Lihu'e where it turns into Hwy 50 and then west all the way along the coast to almost the end of the road. Past the town of Waimea I turn north up the winding local road 552. Up the mountain you can see the tiny (72 sq mi) private island of Ni`ihau where a population of 250 lives like the ancient Hawaiians. It's a long slow ride going to 4000 feet and the Waimea Canyon Lookout, Hawaii's Little Grand Canyon. The pictures you see in the brochures or the web look unreal, painted colors of the rainbow across rough canyon walls. Damn if it wasn't true in person, quite striking. We stopped at all the lookouts (e.g. the popular Kalalau Lookout and the Pu`u o Kila one furthest up), the Koke`e Museum (and restaurant), and the wild chickens and roosters. Kauai has become home to thousands of them, roaming the island with impunity, having few natural predators, and also unable to tell time. They cock-a-doodle-doo 24/7, not just at sunrise. My slideshow of Waimea Canyon with commentary.

   I return down local road 550 which leads directly through Waimea on the coast, then east on Hwy 50 past (not into) the Russian Fort Elizabeth State Park. But I couldn't resist turning down Hwy 540 to visit the Kauai Coffee Company. We went into the visitor center where I watched videos of their history and 21^th century computerized harvest and production methods (they produce more coffee beans than all of the Big Island and the more famous and superior Kona coffee). They had all their flavors for free drinking (small paper cups) and I tasted quite a few, many I drink straight, very relaxing atmosphere. I found I really liked their Blue Mountain and Red Catuai (but stores only carry one or two of their brands, and not one of these). Then we walked the outside tour. I decided I wanted to drink their coffee, and luckily our condo provided 10-cup filter packs of both their regular and decaf Estate Roasted. But I can't drink a whole pot, and Sandy doesn't drink coffee at all. I thought of freezing cup full servings to microwave each day. Revised this to brewing a whole pot, rapid cooling it in ice water, keeping it in the refrigerator and pouring a cup a day (microwaved hot). Tasted fresh and good. Have continued this at home.

   Near our condo was Lydgate Beach Park, advertised as one of the few in Kauai that have lifeguards, with calm and clear water for young swimmers and beginner snorkelers. A boulder enclosed pool allows fresh water and fish in but keeps strong waves out. Sounded like something for kids and the locals, and thus probably not us, but we checked it out and it looked OK, lots of parking and easy access, so we planned to return another day to make real use of it. Then dinner at Scotty's Beachside BBQ. "What" you say, Texans eating BBQ in Hawaii. Well this guy set up a nice restaurant just a mile north of our condo (our condo in Kapa'a is really the hub for everything) because no one made decent BBQ. He hit the mark. Sandy loved the sampler (brisket, pork, chicken and BLT) with hawaiian potato mac (potato salad/macaroni salad/cole slaw/other stuff). My pulled pork and baked beans (with pork in it) was also excellent. And some was left for lunch the next day. You sit looking out over a strip of land with the new Kapa'a bike path (sort of like a Boardwalk) and the Pacific ocean 100 yards away.

Thursday - Day 9

   We went exploring back along Hwy 50 again (south Kauai). We originally planned to explore the north, but the weather was overcast and misty at the condo and would likely be worse in the north and better in the south. First stop was the town of Po'ipu and surrounding attractions. Taking Hwy 520 through the Tree Tunnel where 500 eucalyptus trees were planted along the sides of the road in the early 1900's. Then we drove along the coast on Lawa'i Road to the Spouting Horn. Local business people set up a small tent city (Flea Market) for selling their stuff to tourists near the outlook area (with wild roosters everywhere). The folklore of the Spouting Horn is quite embellished for a simple hole in the lava shelf where the ocean pushes up and spouts.

   Cloudy and misty it remained, not great beach weather but beaches we would see. One after another, some in front of the hotels, others public, but the distinction blurs. We parked at the Sheraton Kauai Resort and checked out their beach, then went a bit down the road (east) to the Marriott's Waiohai Beach Club, with its share of Po'ipu beach, then to public Po'ipu Beach Park. This was a major site, large public parking lot with Brennecke’s Beach Broiler restaurant nearby, lifeguards, changing stations (we both changed into our bathing suits), bathrooms and picnic areas. We ate lunch at the picnic area despite some bees, and got a bit wet in the ocean. We also got to see a 500 lb Hawaiian Monk Seal on the beach, sleeping off a meal or whatever they do (actually, berthing babies is not uncommon). A rapid response Monk Seal Watch team, established in 1992, cordoned them off from the public which provides the protection the seals are required to have by Federal law. But in Kauai, especially in the Po'ipu beach area, things have escalated. The original Kauai Monk Seal Watch Team under the auspices of the state Department of Land and Natural Resources, and an off shoot, the Hawaiian Monk Seal Coalition allied with the federal National Marine Fisheries Service, have feuded over interpretation and enforcement of the regulations. Kauaiians take seals seriously.

   We move again east, on foot, to a tiny little Brenneche Beach, nice sand. Back in the car to the impressive Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa on Keoneloa Bay. We spent some time walking through the hotel, its grounds and their salt-water lagoon (huge, impressive). Check out the photos on their website. Oh yeah, the beach. It was ok and not recommended for average swimmers (the hotel has colored flags for ocean conditions, and rumor has it their lawyers confiscated the green-safe flag). Connected, and a bit to the east was the public part "Shipwreck Beach" where companies like Nukumoi Surf take people for lessons and the chance for great surfing.

   Heading back towards the condo we tried to stop at Kalapaki Beach at The Marriott in Lihu'e. Heard it had gentle waves for beginners but found it nearly impossible to get to, no directions, no parking. Driving about we got to their golf course on the hill with a great view of the bay and cruise ship. We could see the beach, just couldn't get to it. Thus it was we came back to Lydgate, where parking was a snap, and we were on the beach and swimming. We concluded our evening with me walking over to Safeway, buying a broasted chicken, hawaiian potato mac, and stuff for dinner in the condo, with leftovers for lunch.

Friday - Day 10

   I needed to try another brand of pineapple and went to the other grocery store, got a Dole. Later when I tried it, not much better then the first, neither one was a Mauai Gold. Very disappointed, thought ANY pineapple bought in Hawaii should be excellent. Guess not, and wondering whether Maui Gold is special. Today we did north Kauai. First stop Kilauea Lighthouse. Finally something lots of tourist seemed to be driving to. Built in 1913, it is the northernmost point in all of Hawai`i. Like most things that old, it was decommissioned in the 70's and now a tourist spot, with the Moku`ae`ae Island off shore (bird sanctuary). From the 1st overlook, birds and lighthouse were visible. Driving into the place for $3/person to walk the grounds but not get to the light itself seemed unnecessary.

   With few roads and lots of beaches, it seemed we took every turn off Hwy 56. Kilauea Rd took us to the Lighthouse. The next road was Kalihiwai (number 1, it used to be one road until a 1957 tsunami separated it in the middle, and now there is a 1 and 2). One takes you to Kalihiwai Bay and beach, two to 'Anini beach, home to the rich and famous (and indeed there were expensive homes there). Then Ka Haku Rd into Princeville, a huge complex of condos, golf, spa, beaches, Hotel and real estate. We parked and spent time walking the Hotel complex. Like so many sites on the island, Princeville Hotel sits on a cliff 180 feet above the water. A maze of elevators baffles the guests (such that bellboys are required to get you and your luggage to the room), each going down half a dozen floors but then requiring you to walk through that part of the building to get to the next elevator and finally to the pool area and beach. There were public beach accesses, we checked one out by the parking lot. Through dense foliage along a chain fence next to another condo, to the edge of the cliff, the 180 foot drop with just a railing and who knows what condition of steps (obviously we didn't go down).

   Hanalei Lookout provided a nice view. And the shopping in their strip mall was just enough to serve as a distraction. But warm and sunny finally evoked the urge in Sandy to get her shave ice (with mac ice cream) at Paradise Shave Ice. Note mac is macadamia nut, and shave does not have a "d".

   We drive by Lumaha'i Beach, and Wainiha Beach, then Tunnels Beach. That had a reputation for excellent snorkeling (but not protected waters). There was a one lane road, easy to miss, and full of cars. It would have been almost impossible even to drive down it, much less park or turn around. The trick was to get there 8 am, or to walk a mile from Ha'ene Beach Park where we did find a spot. We walked the beach, checked out a "dry" cave (there was a wet one as well). Finally we reach the end - Ke'e Beach (which was literally the end of Hwy 560). We had to wait for a parking spot to open, but were patient. Portapotties allowed us to change into beachwear. It was crowded (as Kauai beaches go), and overcast. We got a little wet and saw the snorkelers. We walked the beach to the east and could get a good look at the Na Pali coast and the mountains, named Bali Hai (as in the movie South Pacific). The grey skies prevented me from getting a picture, so check out a stock picture. Otherwise, helicopter or boat is the only way to see the Na Pali coast.

   When we got back to Kapa'a we decided I should get a snorkel set for the next day (and maybe beyond). As I said, everything was in Kapa'a, and two different snorkel rental shops were next door to each other, and a thousand feet from our condo. We scouted both out earlier. Snorkel Bob is in all the tourist literature and we've seen his shops on the other islands (Kauai-2, Oahu-1, Maui-4, Big Island-2). The salesmen at this shop were very knowledgeable (we could get masks with corrective lenses, how to fit despite a mustache, etc) and friendly. Big selection. Prices same as competition. Boss Frog's Dive & Surf also has many shops (Kauai-1, Maui-6, Big Island-1) but seemed less expansive, and the salesgirl never attended to us (she was on the phone with someone about what to do about unaccounted charges on her register). So we went with Bob. Option to return it next night or keep it as long as we needed (just come in to square the additional day charges). Thus prepared for tomorrow we had dinner outdoors (almost, covered area but open) and had very, very good seafood and a sunset at Wahoo's Seafood Grill & Bar across from Snorkel Bob's.

Saturday - Day 11

   Meanwhile my second pineapple was only slightly better than the first, and still no where near my expectations. But the winds were favorable, the sun was out, and we expected to spend a major portion of the day in water. Early to Lydgate Beach. Found a place by a tree, wild chickens nearby but few people yet. I donned my snorkeling gear and circled the enclosure, saw a fair number of fish, two 4-foot long trumpet fish were the most remarkable. Really big fish can't get in, but then neither could the waves, so a good compromise for me, and later Sandy. She wanted to try and my mask fit her fine (but my fins were too large so she did without but managed ok). This was her first time ever snorkeling and she was impressed how well she could see. Quickly became addicted to snorkeling.

   I explored north of the main beach through a parking lot and towards the Wailua River. An interpretive trail through a coconut grove describes the 700 year old rock piles which represent the ruins of Hauola (City of Refuge) and Hikina A Ka La (Rising of the Sun), two sacred religious sites.

   Back at our condo, Waipouli Beach Resort, we decide to actually try our own pool. It's not really a pool, but a salt water river which winds back and forth, and some water slides. Sandy went in. Consensus was ok, but not as fine as the expansive salt water lagoon at the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort. We went out to the small beach at our condo. With unclean sand, rock and shells, non-sandy shelf in water (rocks, lava) it was rated by Sandy as very bad.

   We still hadn't gotten much in the gift department, so we spent some time shopping. The Kauai Products Fair (flea market) is just a bit north of the condo in Kapa'a. Lots of shops, some in buildings, others under tents, or out of trucks. It is a weekend outdoor market highlighting crafters, artisans, fresh produce vendors, tropical plant and flower growers, collectibles, aloha wear, wellness practitioners and island food. The first place we went (tent) had a great selection of gifts made of shells. Prices were negotiable through out the Fair and we talked to the merchant about two items, a wall hanging/plaque with a turtle montage for Sandy, and a bird cage of shells with shell birds inside (a cross between a wind chime and a chandelier) for Barbara. After walking the rest of the Fair, and seeing another shop with the shell bird cage thing (but a bit more in price and not quite the variety) we returned. Some other merchant was covering for the original fellow and we made a good deal, then the 1^st returned and we got everything boxed up. We saw another shop on the main road just a quarter mile away with these shell bird cages, but otherwise I've never seen them anywhere, and it was a great hit with Barbara. Wish I could point to a picture on the Internet, but most merchants and shops in Kauai are too small to have a web presence, just cash and carry.

   We drove down the street, parked at the Library and went into Kapa'a Community Ball Park to check out the annual Kauai Pow Wow Council Festival, organized for the Native American Indian Community. Click on the 2006 pictures link at their website to see their activities (dancing, eating, music, crafts for sale and election of officers).

   Still experimenting with dinner restaurants we tried and were disappointed at Waipouli Restaurant in Kapa'a in a strip mall near us. Then to the major shopping in Kapa'a - Coconut Market Place. In fact we had stopped there our second day and I bought my Kauai T-shirt. We left empty handed this time.

Sunday - Day 12

   I'm eating the pineapple best I can. The day was fair but threatening to rain. We kept the snorkeling gear and headed to Lydgate Beach. I had snorkeled enough but Sandy wanted to go again today. But first she wanted to enjoy the beach and read the Sunday paper. So I took a walk south along their bike/jogging path and found a great playground built like a bridge over a road of sand to access the beach. Restrooms, golf course, fireplaces and sitting areas made the acreage very user friendly and appealing. Plus a huge park and playground just across from the main beach. This appears to be the premier beach for locals, where high school reunions, holiday events, etc are done. On this Sunday many locals were setting up major picnic areas, cooking for 40.

   Sandy got to her snorkeling while I sat on the beach and watched our valuables. Dark clouds came in and it started to rain, heavy. I grabbed everything and threw it in the car, then stood under cover by the restrooms. Meanwhile Sandy was still snorkeling but eventually realized it was raining and came out. Sure it stopped but the beach was wet and the temperature had cooled. I decided to drive around east Kapa'a and return to the beach after it dried out.

   Where did the locals live? Based on the traffic, a lot of non-tourists turned west off of Hwy 56 onto Hwy 580. So I followed it, past `Opaeka`a Falls and into lots of neighborhoods. Then past a Hindu Monastery as 580 climbed into the mountains. The Blue book says this place is amazing, but tours are very limited. We continued up the mountain (remember this leads to the wettest place on Earth) until the paved road stops, goes under a stream and continues into the Waikoko Forest as a path suitable for 4WD only. I stopped at the stream and turned around. Half way back turned onto Hwy 581, nice homes, farms and scenery. This took me back to north Kapa'a and I took the bypass road the locals obviously use which runs west of Hwy 56 to alleviate traffic congestion in the town.

   That should have been enough time to get back in the water, but although I got my very same parking spot back (and it was very crowded by now) we decided swimming was over and I took Sandy around by foot or car to show her the sacred area, resort hotel, and playgrounds I had discovered. The Friends of Kamalani and Lydgate Park continue to improve the park, and are near completion of the new Kamalani Pavilion. It is decorated with kids’ ceramic mosaics, legends carved in wood by local Hawaiian craftsmen, and students’ patterns embellishing the walls. Designed to include an intimate stage, sheltered picnic areas, and even a fire pit. The ceramics were fantastic, covering the restroom and nearby structures. Check them out at this website. After exploring Lydgate, we returned the gear to Snorkel Bob and ate dinner in the condo.

Monday - Day 13

   Last day and an evening flight out at 9:30pm which means we have to figure out how to spend a whole day living out of the rental car. No swimming. Some talk about going back to the Kona Coffee Visitor Center to get their premium coffee (not sold at stores) and we drove almost that far down Hwy 50, but instead went through Puhi and on Hulemalu Rd stopped at the overlook to see Menehune Fishpond. Every book and website seems to have a different "legend" about it. But what is significant is that it dates back 1000 years. The 900 foot wall between the pond and the river is a considerable engineering feat for the Hawaiians a millennium ago who heavily depended on fish as a staple in their diet.

   The road took me to Nawiliwili Harbor, passed the NCL luxury boat (note this $500 million cruise ship weighs 180 million pounds, 965 feet long, 106 feet across, 27 foot draft, a tight fit in the Menehune Fishpond). We parked and walked around the Harbor Mall, its website is more exciting than the Mall, excluding the fun Beach Rail Trains hobby store.

   Back through Lihu'e and more gift shopping at the place known as the Store of Hawai`i: Hilo Hattie. Very busy from the influx of tourists in cars and tour buses. We got beach shoes for Steven, a movable turtle key chain for Barbara.

   The night before, Sandy's brother's wife had raved about the Fern Grotto and why had we not seen it. Truth be told, although it had been impressive in years past (she was there 30 yrs ago), Hurricane `Iwa in 1992 ruined it, and a few years ago heavy rains finished it. They closed the walkways and now its nothing except for the 20 minute boat ride each way. Thus we had never considered going. But desperate times (i.e. we had tons of time to kill) put it on the list for our last day.

   Smith's Fern Grotto Cruises is one way to go, and although the kayak way looked like fun, we didn't want our arms to ache and fall off the next day for the work today. We were early for the first riverboat ride of the day and looked like we would have lots of room to ourselves, but on cue, minutes before launch, three tour buses pulled up and boarded. It was still roomy enough, and the crew sang and danced all the way up. The trip goes up the only navigable river on the Island, Wailua River. We passed the Kamokila Hawaiian Village which we had seen days earlier from the Wailua River Lookout (across from `Opaeka`a Falls). Kayakers were everywhere. At the grotto we all departed, took a short hike to the lower landing where the crew set up, gave some history, sang another song and then we left. They stayed for the next boat which came up without them but would return with that boat doing their act, a good strategy to minimize the number of entertainers they needed. I'll let my pictures tell the rest of the story.

   Still mid afternoon, so head to Lihu'e and the biggest Mall on the island, Kukui Grove Mall. Walked through a side parking lot where a Farmer's Market was set up, but only for an hour, and most sellers had the same fruits. This lead down a flight of stairs to the biggest K-Mart I ever saw. Nevertheless we bought nothing. Dinner was to be across the street at Burger King, where we took the opportunity to change into our traveling clothes.

   Then I dropped off Sandy at the airport and took the rental car back. Through the usual customs to get into the airport, explore the shops and then sit for hours till our flight left. I noticed several large shipping boxes labelled as Maui Gold pineapple. The gift shop sold then in carry-on boxes, 3 for $33 (they go for $5 a piece in the grocery store). However, the flower shop next to the gift shop had them lose in the refrigerated section with the flowers. I asked if I could buy just one. The manager was negative and suspicious as it wasn't company policy to sell one. Maybe I was a secret shopper trying to get her into trouble. My Veterans Administration photo ID dissuaded her of that and I bought one, boxed for $11 cash. She picked out a ripe one ready to eat. Then I went back and asked what proof I had I had gotten it there when the agents screen all carry-on for illegal fruits, etc. She gave me receipts. However, when we went through inspection at the American Airline bordering area (inside) the agent inspected it, said that just because they sell them doesn't mean they are pre-inspected and approved and might fail inspection. Mine didn't, and it came home to Dallas with me via along overnight flight overnight with a stop over in LA where we bought some breakfast.

Epilogue